A floppy-disk "FloppyDisk 1440K.dmg" to hold the desired applications to be run from floppy (just drag&drop onto the mini_vMac window to insert disk, too).LowEndMac: Making Floppies and CDs for Older Macs Using Modern Macs, Windows, and Linux PCs LowEndMac: Floppy Disk Compatibility and Incompatibility in the Mac World PS: here some other links (found here), that helped me to get my floppy-disk-format-confusion sorted out: from Macintoshgarden or the Macintosh_Repository. Some of my #2 systems are unfortunately in German location, but you may install your own flavor of system6 or system7 onto those "drives" by booting with the "System Startup" first, then throwing in a #2 disk plus any virtual system-installation-floppies (*.dsk), that you've downloaded e.g. basic system6 "System Startup" and "System Additions" to boot up the mini_vMac (like #2).the ROM "vMac.ROM", that just needs to be present for running the mini_vMac emulator.It comes from the "Blanks" download-link from the mini_vMac-Extras page (unfortunately on new intel-macs it's read-only, while on os9 or OSX/PPC you can mount in and throw stuff onto the virtual-floppy for import into the mini_vMac) #2a-c: 40MB virtual hard-disks to boot either system6, system7.0 or system7.5 (just drag&drop onto the mini_vMac window to insert and boot.). #1a-c: the mini_vMac, to "power-on" the machine (for ppc/intel-mac and windows).Here's my "instant" personal mini vMac configuration, that I use while looking forward to get my own Macintosh Classic home (since it's currently at my sons place 700 miles away from my home.). You may play with the mini vMac to find out, what system/applications fits onto a floppy and bypass the need of a harddrive.įor just text-input, booting basic system6 from ROM "by holding down command-option-x-o at startup" (I assume, that's what meant too) and popping in a floppy with the desired application(s) will do fine. Leaky cap damage is often repairable, while battery damage usually means that the board is trash, or at least on something like a Classic. It's worth a peak inside also as I've seen more than my fair share that had its battery explode and cause a lot more damage to the board than caps ever will. The screen artifacts are tell-tale also of bad caps. The numbers/letters under the Sad Mac are actually a hexidecimal error code that you can record and look up, but with failing caps it's not really that useful as it will generally throw a different one every time. In my experience, the HDD in a Classic is USUALLY good(one of the few parts that is). If you have one laying around, it can be very useful for diagnostic purposes to see if the computer is poking the HDD at all, although when it boots to a sad mac there's likely not much if any drive activity. I've recently got a working and fully aquipped Macintosh Classic as a donation and I can tell you, that even after a long research the 68k-era is a mystery to me! It's kind of a challenge, to make it part of and connected to my other PPC-Macs, but it's seriously nothing for professional writing, especially with a forced-in unfitting keyboard.ĭepending on how invasive/"redneck" you want to get, many old SCSI HDDs as installed on these computers had pins at the front for an access light. If you should need a floppy-disk for booting and want to use online-sources like macintoshgarden to get the software, you should take into account, that you'll need a pre-OSX-system to create appropriate floppy-disks for those early 68k systems. You may boot up System6 from RAM: "A feature unique to the Classic is the ability to boot from ROM by holding down command-option-x-o at startup" It's a piece of historic computing, better get a power cord and the fitting keyboard (BTW it's an ADB-keyboard) and mouse first. If you have to professionally write a lot of stuff and think about using that Macintosh Classic for that task: just forget about it - it does not fit any demands on current computing nor networking.
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